After a few kilometres the road turned up a tributary of
the river and I continued climbing towards Limatambo on my way to Cusco.
The day had saved a 700m climb for the end when you’re most tired, but there
were more challenges to come. I could see a storm up the valley in the
direction I was heading and sure enough, I copped a downpour. I’d seen it
coming and had my jacket on in time. Riding in the rain? Once you’re wet it’s
okay. After 10 minutes or so, the rain stopped as quickly as it had started and
the road was bone dry. If you lived here, your vegies had got nothing. The
brewing grey clouds also brought wind and I had a headwind as I headed up the
valley. I got dry again, but near to Limatambo it rained again. I rode 1
kilometre too far past where we were staying. Annoying at any time, doubly so
when it’s raining. We’re camping in the grounds of a hostel, but for $4 I
grabbed a warm dry bed instead of setting up my tent in the rain. Best $4 I've
spent in awhile.
Cooked by the host with everything else by Kirstin,
dinner tonight was guinea pig, or cuy as the locals call them. They’re not pets
in South America, but just for food in the same way as we don’t keep pigs as
pets. I’d had it when I was in SA in 2004, but we were all having it tonight, so
I had it again. The verdict? Not a lot of meat for the amount of work. They’re
all bone. A wise local said, ‘Never order cuy when you’re hungry.’ It takes so
long to get bits and there really isn’t that much meat there. Contrary to what
you might be thinking, they’re not a tourist novelty, but appear on many local
menus throughout Ecuador, Peru and if I remember correctly, Bolivia too.
They’re a good source of protein for the people here as they don’t take up much
room and don’t have to be taken out to graze. The agricultural department have
bred special fatter bigger ones for eating, apparently. Here are a few photos
of our group dinner of cuy.
Malcolm
(to be continued)